You love old European architecture but let’s face it: you’d also like to eat delicious food, soak up some sun and swim in a sparkling blue sea. In today’s post, we will be heading to Italy’s gorgeous Amalfi coast.  Three of the must see towns are Amalfi, Ravello and Positano.

Italy’s Amalfi Coast

The area designated as the Amalfi Coast stretches 50 kilometers (31 miles) along the coastal southern edge of Italy’s Sorrentino Peninsula. As a very popular tourist destination, the summer months tend to be quite crowded. Narrow roads wind past splendid villas, terraced vineyards and fragrant lemon groves, all while hugging the sheer cliffs that drop straight down to a rugged coastline dotted with intimate beaches and pastel-colored fishing villages.

Amalfi

The first stop is the romantic town of Amalfi, about 40 miles south of Naples.  Named a World Heritage UNESCO Site in 1997, Amalfi was founded by the Romans.  Between the ninth and 11th centuries, Amalfi was the first of the Marine Republics and competed with Genoa, Pisa, and Venice for control of the Mediterranean Sea. Situated between Salerno and Sorrento, the town sits on the shoreline below the breathtakingly steep cliffs of Italy’s southwest coast. 

Amalfi: Where to Stay

For lodging, we stayed at the magnificent Hotel Luna Convento, perched right on Amalfi’s most iconic point. Looking to the Northwest from the balcony, the town of Amalfi stretches out from the brightly colored umbrellas on the shore by day, to the glittering lights sloping up the hill by night.

In addition to a pool carved into a rock jutting into the Mediterranean Sea, hotel guests can take their chances and jump off of a high rock plunging into the azure, sparkling sea.  The service overall was wonderful; the waiters even don tuxedos in the evenings for cocktail hour. We took our time at breakfast, savoring the strong, Italian coffee while looking out over the bejeweled coastline.

St. Andrew’s Cathedral, Amalfi

The number one stop to visit in Amalfi is St. Andrew’s Cathedral, situated in the Piazza del Duomo.  Dedicated to the Apostle Saint Andrew, it holds the remains of the venerated Saint’s relics, which were brought from Constantinople after the Fourth Crusade. Begun in the 9^th and 10^th centuries, the style is a blend of Moorish, Byzantine, and Gothic, reflecting the various cultural influences on this maritime city.  The entrance of the church is dramatic, due to the very steep steps up to the main portico and the façade in its array of stripes, arches and mosaics.  When facing the church, to the left, the bell tower is a central cupola surrounded by four turrets ornately decorated with green and yellow tiles.

The massive bronze doors were commissioned in 1060 by a wealthy merchant and were the first cast bronze doors to appear in Italy.

The “Cloister of Paradise”, just after the entry, is a lovely, palm tree filled courtyard surrounded by 120 columns and Moorish pointed arches. 

Throughout the visit, there is incredible medieval religious art painted directly onto the walls, with what I can only imagine requires constant monitoring and restoration. The colors are still vibrant, despite the wear and tear of the past millennium.

Equally beautiful is the collection of mosaics dating back to the XII century, which at one point decorated various parts of the cathedral. 

After a series of exhibits, you reach the altar of Saint Andrew, where his relics are kept, a somber and humbling experience to say the least.

Amalfi Coast Must See: Ravello

Despite its charm and sunny energy, Amalfi is crowded and has its fair share of tacky tourist shops. Ravello, on the other hand, is surprisingly less crowded and exudes elegance and refinement.  This quiet grace could be due in part to its location as it is perched 365 meters (1,197 feet) above sea level with the requisite drive being a bit death-defying. Ravello is home to the Ravello Music Festival, an annual summer event, in which the main stage cantilevers over the cliff with a backdrop of the Amalfi coastline.  Ravello can easily be seen in a day but it is home to several very prestigious hotels, so if the budget allows, an overnight stay allows more time to devour the sights of this exquisite town. It is said that St. Francis visited Ravello on his way to venerate the remains of Saint Andrew in Amalfi.

Ravello: The Villa Rufolo

The Villa Rufolo is located within the historic center of Ravello, which overlooks the front of the cathedral square, just across from the Duomo. The entry is through a square Moorish tower.  The initial layout dates from the 13th century, with extensive remodeling in the 19th century. Built for the wealthy Rufolo family, it was also home of various popes as well as King Robert of Anjou.  The terraced gardens and the breathtaking views of the Church of the Annunziata and the waters below are the highlights here and should not be missed.

Ravello: The Villa Cimbrone

The Villa Cimbrone is now a hotel but the first construction took place in the 11th century.  Initially the home of an aristocratic family, it passed on to other noble families through the generations. However, around the time of WWII, it had fallen into serious decline. It has since been restored to its former glory and the gardens are spectacular.

After the visit, we stopped for a pizza and a delicious bottle of white wine from the Amalfi Coast.

Amalfi Coast Must See: Positano

Finally, 16 kilometers from Amalfi is the dreamy seaside town of Positano, a shopper’s paradise. Seen from the sea, it is bright and cheery, with its white, pink and yellow Mediterranean houses and lovely Byzantine Church of Santa Maria Assunta.  Positano has had an up and down history, from prosperity to tsunamis to pirate attacks to finally, in the 20th century becoming a destination for artists, intellectuals and celebrities.  Positano has a wonderful beach, the Spiaggia Grande, 300 meters long and full of life. Plenty of restaurants sit on the beach, with lots of seafood dishes to choose from. From the beach, there are plenty of sea taxi services which can take visitors to smaller, more remote bays and beaches along the coast. Or, you can take a boat and visit the “Grotta dello Smeraldo”, a mysterious cave, partly inundated by the sea in which visitors can swim.

Three Must See Towns Along the Amalfi Coast

A lot of articles talk about which town is “best”. This is really hard to answer as each has a distinctive feel and ambience. Amalfi is bustling and spirited, with its impressive cathedral, many wonderful places to eat and its main town square which makes for wonderful people watching.  Ravello is refined and quiet, known for its terraced gardens and spectacular views.  Charming Positano has a fantastic beach and an amazing array of shops, in all price ranges.  As much as I have traveled, the Amalfi Coast is one of the most breath taking and gorgeous places I have ever been to, with the dramatic coast lines, the colorful Mediterranean painted homes, the delicious seafood and wine, the sun and the sea.

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